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The Made to Measure trouser check list

The Made to Measure trouser check list

If you are looking to have a pair of trousers made, the options that you may need to consider and specify to the tailor can be a bit overwhelming, and the chance of you forgetting something is quite high.

I'm going to try to list as many as I know, and I hope my readers (if there are any) can assist me.

Starting from the top of the trouser and going down:

Waistband

The options here are usually either side adjusters or belt loops. Side adjusters can usually be buttons or straps. I have button adjusters on most of my trousers, but I actually find straps nicer.

Suspender buttons

Suspender buttons are an option regardless of waistband. If you plan on wearing suspenders, go for it.

If your trousers are a bit tight, you can end up with some nice markings in your skin after a whole day of wearing.

Rise

Are your trousers going to be high waisted or low waisted? And if high, how high?

I like high waist these days, but you may feel otherwise, and it's all up to your taste.

Pleats

Pleats are as much up to your personal taste as whether to go for high waist or low waist is.

Options here are usually none, one, or two pleats. Pleats can either be forward or backwards facing, but not all tailors offer both options here. I find backwards-facing most pleasing.

A lot has been written about pleats on the internet, so I will not repeat too much. However, pleats uses more fabric, so the fit will be that much more loose. It goes best together with high waist trousers for that old-school look.

Here's a closeup of my pleats.

pleat-highlight

Knee placement

If you're measuring this yourself, it can be tricky. The tailor usually makes room for the trousers to bend correctly at the knee, so be sure to have that measured correctly.

Trouser width

Another quite individual step. Some like their trousers slim, others like a bit of width. I prefer my trousers to go straight down, so I like a bit of width in them.

Foot width/Hem

Make sure that the foot width is not too wide. This is the bottom-most part of the trousers and can without problems be narrower than the rest of the trousers.

Cuffs or no cuffs

Cuffs go with pleats I believe. But again, this is a matter of taste.

cuffs

Hem Slanting

Some people like their trousers a bit short, showing a bit of the sock. That usually means that the difference between the front of the trouser and the back of the trouser is rather short. If you like your trousers to go all the way down, you would usually have the back a even longer than the front.

Did I forget something? Let me know. This article will be updated with pictures.


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